Title Here

    by Charles Kim

    Working from a Master Pattern to Fashion Your Own Knits

    Knitting Design

    by Sharon Turner

    01_068175 ffirs.qxd 121906 12:38 AM Page iTitle Here

    by Charles Kim

    Working from a Master Pattern to Fashion Your Own Knits

    Knitting Design

    by Sharon Turner

    01_068175 ffirs.qxd 121906 12:38 AM Page iTeach Yourself VISUALLY? Knitting Design

    Copyright ? 2007 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved.

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    01_068175 ffirs.qxd 121906 12:38 AM Page iiPraise for the Teach Yourself VISUALLY Series

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    01_068175 ffirs.qxd 121906 12:38 AM Page iiiCredits

    Acquisitions Editor

    Pam Mourouzis

    Project Editor

    Kitty Wilson Jarrett

    Technical Editor

    Kristi Porter

    Editorial Manager

    Christina Stambaugh

    Publisher

    Cindy Kitchel

    Vice President and Executive Publisher

    Kathy Nebenhaus

    Interior Design

    Kathie Rickard

    Elizabeth Brooks

    Cover Design

    José Almaguer

    Photography

    Matt Bowen

    Photographic Assistant

    Andrew Hanson

    Illustrator

    Cynthia Frenette

    Special Thanks...

    To the following companies for providing the yarn for the projects shown in this book:

    elann.com (www.elann.com)

    Muench Yarns (www.muenchyarns.com)

    Cascade Yarns (www.cascadeyarns.com)

    Plymouth Yarn Company

    (www.plymouthyarn.com)

    Brown Sheep Yarns

    (www.brownsheep.com)

    01_068175 ffirs.qxd 121906 12:38 AM Page ivAbout the Author

    Sharon Turner designs knitwear and publishes a line of knitting patterns under the trade-

    mark Monkeysuits. She is the author of Monkeysuits: Sweaters and More to Knit for Kids and

    Teach Yourself VISUALLY Knitting. Sharon lives in Brooklyn, New York, with her husband

    and three daughters.

    Acknowledgments

    Thank you always to my dear family. For helping with the knitting, many, many thanks go

    to Kitty Jarrett, Pam Mourouzis, Cindy Kitchel, and Kristen Balouch. Ann Cannon-Brown,of elann.com, and Kirstin Muench, of Muench Yarns, enthusiastically supplied a lot of the

    beautiful yarns used for the swatches and projects. My compliments and gratitude go out to

    the models—Alison Andrews, Will Bown, Julie Bubp, Keira Cerda, Andrea Cofield, Katie

    Doogan, Kaleb Wagoner, and Sarah Wilson—who generously gave their smiles and time.

    Thanks also to Matt Bowen for the photography and Kristi Porter for her technical exper-

    tise. It was truly a pleasure to work again with Pam Mourouzis, Kitty Jarrett, Christina

    Stambaugh, and Cindy Kitchel, whose wisdom, patience, and willingness to pick up the

    knitting slack are seemingly infinite. (I can’t thank you all enough!)

    01_068175 ffirs.qxd 121906 12:38 AM Page vGetting Started Designing Knits chapter 1

    Using the Master Patterns . . . . . . . . . . .4

    Choosing the Right Yarn . . . . . . . . . . .6

    Check Your Gauge . . . . . . . . . . . .8

    Scarves and Shawls chapter2

    Scarf Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

    Scarf: Master Pattern . . . . . . . . . . . .13

    Shawl Shapes . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

    Rectangular Shawl: Master Pattern . . . . . . . . .17

    Triangular Shawl: Master Patterns . . . . . . . . .23

    Make a Shawl into a Poncho . . . . . . . . . . .28

    02_068175 ftoc.qxd 121906 12:39 AM Page viHat Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

    Hat: Master Pattern . . . . . . . . . . . .34

    Finishes for the Top . . . . . . . . . . . .42

    Tutorial: Knitting in the Round on Double-Pointed Needles . . . . .44

    Bag Designs . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

    Rectangular Bag: Master Pattern . . . . . . . . .50

    Round Bag: Master Pattern . . . . . . . . . . .55

    Create Handles . . . . . . . . . . . .60

    Line a Knitted Bag . . . . . . . . . . . .64

    Felting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66

    Tutorial: Felted Bag . . . . . . . . . . . .68

    Hats chapter3

    Bags chapter4

    02_068175 ftoc.qxd 121906 12:39 AM Page viiSocks chapter5

    Things to Consider Before Knitting Socks . . . . . . . .76

    Socks: Master Pattern . . . . . . . . . . .78

    Tutorial: Toe-Up Sock Pattern . . . . . . . . . . .89

    Mittens, Gloves, and Hand Warmers chapter6

    Mitten and Glove Styles . . . . . . . . . . .94

    Mittens and Gloves: Master Pattern . . . . . . . . .96

    Hand Warmers: Master Pattern . . . . . . . . . .115

    02_068175 ftoc.qxd 121906 12:39 AM Page viiiVests chapter 7

    Vest Styles . . . . . . . . . . . . .124

    Vest: Master Pattern . . . . . . . . . . . .126

    More Vest Ideas . . . . . . . . . . . .149

    Tutorial: Vest Variation . . . . . . . . . . .151

    Sweaters chapter8

    Sweater Styles . . . . . . . . . . . .162

    Assembling a Sweater . . . . . . . . . . .163

    Sweater: Master Pattern . . . . . . . . . . .164

    Tutorial: Sweater Variation . . . . . . . . . . .211

    02_068175 ftoc.qxd 121906 12:39 AM Page ixAltering the Master Patterns chapter9

    Adjusting a Design to Suit Your Taste . . . . . . . . .218

    Working with Stitch Patterns . . . . . . . . . . .220

    Adding Color . . . . . . . . . . . . .222

    Changing the Body Shape . . . . . . . . . . .224

    Altering Sleeves . . . . . . . . . . . .226

    Designing Your Own Knits chapter 10

    Looking for Inspiration . . . . . . . . . . .230

    Choosing the Right Style . . . . . . . . . . .231

    Designing in Color . . . . . . . . . . . .232

    Perfecting the Fit . . . . . . . . . . . .236

    Doing the Math . . . . . . . . . . . .238

    Determining Yarn Yardage . . . . . . . . . . .240

    02_068175 ftoc.qxd 121906 12:39 AM Page xAppendix A: Techniques and

    Embellishments . . .242

    Appendix B: Reference Materials . . .276

    Index . . . . . . .288

    02_068175 ftoc.qxd 121906 12:39 AM Page 1Getting Started

    Designing Knits

    Some knitters like to follow patterns down to the last detail, without

    making any changes. Many other knitters like to alter patterns: They

    choose a different yarn than a pattern specifies, omit a collar, use an

    alternate stitch pattern, or add embellishments. This book provides a

    wealth of modifiable knitting patterns and helps you understand how to

    create your own unique knit designs.

    Using this book to design your own knits is easy: You simply choose

    an item and a yarn, and then you select from the various master pat-

    terns for scarves, shawls, hats, bags, socks, mittens, gloves, vests, or

    sweaters. The master patterns include instructions for a wide range of

    sizes and gauges. Particular yarns are not specified, but yarns for the

    sample projects are listed, in case you want to replicate them.

    A large part of knitting design is math; this book does most of the

    math for you, allowing you to focus on the fun of choosing colors, stitch

    patterns, and embellishments. Once you’ve followed a few of the mas-

    ter patterns through, you’ll have a good understanding of how hand-

    knits are designed and constructed. When you’re ready to depart from

    the master pattern and do your own math and invent your own hand-

    knits, you can consult Chapter 10 for design guidance. Pretty soon, the

    only things you’ll need to start a knitting project will be a few balls of

    yarn, a pair of knitting needles, and your imagination.

    chapter

    1

    03_068175 ch01.qxd 121906 12:39 AM Page 2Using the Master Patterns . . . . . . . .4

    Choosing the Right Yarn . . . . . . . . .6

    Check Your Gauge . . . . . . . . .8

    03_068175 ch01.qxd 121906 12:39 AM Page 3Using the

    Master Patterns

    4

    Have you ever found a pattern that you liked in size and shaping, but you didn’t like the yarn

    weight or the stitch pattern? Or perhaps on impulse you bought a beautiful yarn, but you have no

    pattern to suit it. Or maybe you want to experiment with designing your own knits, but you have

    no idea where to begin. With the help of the master patterns in this book, you can learn to alter an

    existing pattern, use that beautiful yarn, or create your very own designs.

    You may have seen a cookbook that presents

    a master recipe, followed by ways to change

    the recipe to create whole new dishes. In this

    book, the master pattern functions in the

    same way. Materials specifications, stitch

    counts, and, in some cases, shaping instruc-

    tions appear in the master pattern, and alter-

    nate shaping, finishing, edging, and stitch

    patterns accompany it. You can easily design

    your own knits by choosing the various

    options you’d like to put together. For exam-

    ple, you start with the same basic pattern to

    create a pair of mittens or a pair of gloves.

    You choose a size, find the appropriate direc-

    tions for the yarn you’re using, and then

    select from a number of cuff options, stitch

    patterns, and embellishments to make your

    mittens or gloves uniquely yours.

    One Master Pattern, Many Options

    The master patterns allow you to learn to cre-

    ate your own unique styles without having to

    tackle too much complicated math. Each mas-

    ter pattern contains instructions and specifica-

    tions for at least three gauges. The master hat

    pattern, for example, covers six gauges.

    Combine that with numerous brim styles,crown-shaping options, and embellishments,and you have an infinite array of options. If

    you’re feeling adventurous, you can go

    beyond using the various options suggested

    in the master pattern: You can incorporate

    color work, cables, or textured stitch patterns

    into your design by referring to the stitch pat-

    tern glossary at the back of the book.

    03_068175 ch01.qxd 121906 12:39 AM Page 4chapter 1 Getting Started Designing Knits

    5

    You may have come across some old-fashioned knitting books that use

    charts and tables instead of long strings of text to present the information

    you need to knit the items. The master patterns in this book combine the

    two approaches, using both written steps and tables.

    Your first step in using a master pattern is to make some choices. Each

    pattern in this book includes a wide array of options. For every item, you

    can choose from many yarn weights, hem treatments, shaping options,and decorative details. After you decide on a pattern—along with shaping

    and styling preferences—and you are equipped with the appropriate yarn,knitting needles, and other supplies, you need to make and measure a

    gauge swatch. When your gauge is correct according to the instructions,you can begin.

    The instructions for each item are presented in numbered steps, accompa-

    nied, where necessary, by tables like the one here. Various hems, brims,ribbings, shaping methods, or stitch patterns are labeled and presented in

    isolated sections. All you have to do is follow the instructions for your style choice and at the same time follow the informa-

    tion presented in the tables, according to your gauge and size.

    How to Use the Master Patterns

    TIP

    Keeping Track of Where You Are

    Before you begin knitting, you might want to photocopy the pages of the master pattern you’re

    using and then highlight or circle all the numbers that apply to your size and all the options you

    intend to use for your design.

    Cast On

    Gauge No. of Sts to Cast On

    2 stsin. 28 (32, 36, 40, 44)

    3 stsin. 42 (48, 54, 60, 66)

    4 stsin. 56 (64, 72, 80, 88)

    5 stsin. 70 (80, 90, 100, 110)

    6 stsin. 84 (96, 108, 120, 132)

    7 stsin. 98 (112, 126, 140, 154)

    For example, the table above shows how many stitches to cast on to create a hat with a brim that is 14 (16, 18, 20, 22)

    inches in circumference. Say that you want to design a hat for a toddler who needs a hat about 16 inches around, using yarn

    that knits to a gauge of 5 stitches per inch. In the table, you’d go to the 5 stsin. row and then find the number that corre-

    sponds to the second-smallest size. You would therefore cast on 80 stitches. Then, you would follow the directions for the

    brim style and top shaping options you choose.

    03_068175 ch01.qxd 121906 12:39 AM Page 5Choosing the

    Right Yarn

    6

    The yarn you choose for your project should not only match the pattern in gauge and function but

    also in feel, or what is known as hand. Some yarns knit to a stiff fabric, and other fibers work to a

    soft drape. Always choose a yarn that you like on its own; you will be spending hours knitting with

    it, and it’s easy to lose interest in a project if you don’t like the yarn.

    FIBER FOLLOWS FUNCTION

    Be sure to select a fiber or fiber blend that is appropriate for the garment’s func-

    tion. For example, you would probably not knit mittens out of cotton since cotton

    won’t keep your hands warm on a cold winter day. Socks and slippers require

    yarn that maintains elasticity so that they don’t immediately stretch out and lose

    shape. Yarns such as cotton, linen, alpaca, and mohair have little elasticity, so they

    might not be the best choices for socks.

    It is possible to alter and in some cases improve particular characteristics of a fiber

    by combining it with another fiber. For instance, adding acrylic can improve the

    body and elasticity of cotton, and alpaca or cashmere can be mixed with wool for

    added softness. So be sure to consider fiber blends in choosing your yarn.

    CHOOSE YARN THAT FEELS RIGHT

    In addition to considering a yarn’s gauge and the garment’s function, you should

    choose yarn that has the appropriate feel, or hand, for your project. A soft shawl

    with a lot of drape will not work in wool that knits to a stiff and scratchy fabric. If the

    item is going to touch your skin, be sure it is soft and not itchy. Hand-knit bags

    sometimes require a firm, tight fabric. You can achieve this by choosing a dense and

    tightly spun yarn or by using a needle a few sizes smaller than the yarn calls for.

    Take lots of time to experiment with gauge swatches before making your choice.

    THE RIGHT YARN FOR THE STITCH PATTERN

    Stitch pattern also affects yarn choice. If you’re working an item in seed stitch,intricate cables, lace patterns, or detailed color work, you’ll probably want to

    choose yarn that has crisp and clear stitch definition. All that detail will be lost in an

    overly fuzzy yarn. However, using a fuzzy yarn is a good opportunity to work in a

    basic stitch, like garter or stockinette, to let the yarn carry the show. Inelastic yarns—

    containing nylon or linen, for example—can be difficult to work in textured stitch pat-

    terns that use decreases to create bobbles and knots; choose a fiber that has a fair

    amount of stretch for that purpose. Stitch patterns can also get lost in space-dyed or

    multicolored yarns, so save such novelty yarns for simpler stitch patterns. Always test

    your stitch pattern on the yarn you plan to use before jumping into the project.

    03_068175 ch01.qxd 121906 12:39 AM Page 6chapter 1 Getting Started Designing Knits

    7

    STANDARD YARN WEIGHTS, GAUGE RANGES,AND RECOMMENDED NEEDLE SIZES

    Yarn comes in many thicknesses and is generally labeled—

    from thinnest to thickest—as fingering, sport, double knitting,worsted weight, bulky, and super bulky. You may come across

    variations within these categories, as well, such as lace weight,light worsted, Aran weight, heavy worsted, and chunky. These

    descriptions vary greatly from one manufacturer to the next

    and from one designer to the next. The table below, based on

    information from the Craft Yarn Council of America’s website,www.yarnstandards.com, gives you a more precise idea of the

    gauge ranges within which these yarn weights fall, as well as

    the range of needle and crochet hook sizes recommended for

    each weight.

    Fingering

    Sport

    Double knitting

    Worsted weight

    Bulky

    Super bulky

    Standard Yarn Weight System

    Knit Gauge Range in

    Yarn Weight Type of Yarns Stockinette Stitch Recommended Needle, Recommended Needle,Category Name in Category to 4 Inches in Metric Size Range in U.S. Size Range

    Super fine Sock, fingering, baby 27–32 sts 2.25–3.25 mm 1–3

    Fine Sport, baby 23–26 sts 3.25–3.75 mm 3–5

    Light DK, light worsted 21–24 sts 3.75–4.5 mm 5–7

    Medium Worsted, afghan, Aran 16–20 sts 4.5–5.5 mm 7–9

    Bulky Chunky, craft, rug 12–15 sts 5.5–8 mm 9–11

    Super bulky Bulky, roving 6–11 sts 8 mm and larger 11 and larger

    The gauges listed are guidelines only; this table reflects the most commonly used gauges and needle sizes for specific yarn categories.

    03_068175 ch01.qxd 121906 12:39 AM Page 7Check Your

    Gauge

    8

    After you’ve chosen the right fiber for your project, you’re ready to check your gauge. Before start-

    ing any knitting project, you should make a swatch to ensure that you are knitting to the desired

    gauge. Making a gauge swatch takes only a few minutes, and it can save you from spending hours

    on an item that ends up too big or too small.

    To make a gauge swatch, you need to use the yarn and nee-

    dle size, and in some cases the stitch pattern, that the pattern

    calls for. It’s not a bad idea to have handy three pairs of nee-

    dles: the size called for, the next size smaller, and the next

    size larger. (If you don’t use them for this project, you will

    need them someday for another project.)

    1 Cast on the same number of stitches that the pattern says is

    equal to 4 inches.

    2 Work in stockinette stitch (knit on the right side and purl on the

    wrong side) until the swatch is 4 inches long (measuring from

    the cast-on edge to the bottom of the needle).

    Making a Gauge Swatch

    3 Bind off your stitches somewhat loosely, cut the working yarn

    (leaving about a 6-inch tail), and pull the tail through the last

    stitch.

    03_068175 ch01.qxd 121906 12:39 AM Page 8chapter 1 Getting Started Designing Knits

    9

    You can use a ruler, a tape measure, or

    a stitch and needle gauge tool to mea-

    sure your swatch. Also, if your gauge

    swatch is curly and won’t lie flat, and if

    your yarn’s care instructions allow, take

    a warm steam iron to the swatch, press-

    ing only lightly. Let it cool and dry.

    1 Lay your swatch on a flat surface. Place

    your measuring device so that the first

    2 inches are centered horizontally (and

    vertically, if you’re using the stitch and

    needle gauge tool) on the swatch.

    2 Count how many stitches there are in a

    horizontal 2-inch space and how many

    rows there are in a vertical 2-inch

    space.

    3 Divide these numbers by 2, and that is

    the number of stitches and rows you

    are getting per inch.

    4 If your pattern lists gauge as a certain

    number of stitches and rows over 4

    inches, multiply your stitch and row

    counts for 2 inches by 2.

    Note: If your gauge measurement includes a fraction of a stitch, include that in your gauge estimate. For example, if the 2-inch section of

    your swatch results in 8.5 stitches, your gauge is 4.25 stsinch, or 17 sts4 inches.

    Measuring a Gauge Swatch

    Row count

    Stitch count

    FAQ

    What should I do if my gauge is different from

    the one listed in the pattern?

    If you are getting more stitches per 4 inches than the

    pattern calls for, try switching to a needle that is one

    size larger. If you are getting fewer stitches per 4

    inches than the pattern calls for, try switching to a nee-

    dle that is one size smaller. Make a new gauge swatch

    and measure again. If necessary, go up or down

    another needle size, create a new swatch, and mea-

    sure it again.

    It is difficult to match both stitch and row gauge, but it

    is most important to match the stitch gauge accurately.

    If the row gauge is slightly off, follow the garment’s

    vertical measurements rather than the specified row counts.

    03_068175 ch01.qxd 121906 12:39 AM Page 9Scarves and Shawls

    Scarves and shawls, though simple in shape, can encompass many

    styles. They range from practical warmth-providing garments to

    decorative accessories. The possibilities are endless: You can showcase

    a special novelty yarn, experiment with a complicated stitch pattern, or

    simply knit a plain scarf or shawl in the warmest, softest fiber you can

    find. You can experiment with edgings, pompoms, tassels, and fringe to

    create your own unique design.

    chapter

    2

    04_068175 ch02.qxd 121906 12:40 AM Page 10Scarf Styles . . . . . . . . . . .12

    Scarf: Master Pattern . . . . . . . . .13

    Shawl Shapes . . . . . . . . . .16

    Rectangular Shawl: Master Pattern . . . . . . .17

    Triangular Shawl: Master Patterns . . . . . . .23

    Make a Shawl into a Poncho . . . . . . . .28

    04_068175 ch02.qxd 121906 12:40 AM Page 11Scarf

    Styles

    12

    When making scarves, you don’t have to

    worry about shaping or gauge. Many

    scarves are knit in reversible patterns—

    patterns that look good on both the

    right and wrong sides. Just about any

    pattern—openwork, textured stitches,cables—will work, though. Try using

    one of the three stitch patterns show-

    cased in this chapter or turn to

    Appendix B for inspiration in design-

    ing your own scarf.

    KNIT END TO END

    Most scarves are knit end to end, meaning that you work a

    small number of stitches for many rows, until the scarf is the

    desired length. This is a good method for scarves featuring

    cables and complex openwork because you keep track of

    stitches over a short row.

    KNIT LENGTHWISE

    You can knit scarves the long way, casting on a lot of stitches and working

    back and forth in rows on a long circular needle. This method is good for

    simple stitch patterns that are easy to keep track of while knitting or for

    stripes that run the length of the scarf. It is not recommended for lacy

    yarn-over patterns or complex stitch patterns: If you make a mistake, it

    can be difficult to count back to the problem over so many stitches per

    row. To work a scarf this way, you first determine the length of the scarf.

    You check your gauge in the desired stitch pattern and then multiply the

    scarf length by the number of stitches per inch you achieved in the gauge

    swatch. You cast on that many stitches and work until the scarf is the

    desired width.

    04_068175 ch02.qxd 121906 12:40 AM Page 12chapter2 Scarves and Shawls

    13

    The three scarves pictured in this

    chapter are worked in different stitch

    patterns, with instructions included

    for each in three gauges. If your gauge

    doesn’t match exactly to one of the

    choices here, don’t worry. Simply cast

    on the number of stitches specified for

    the nearest gauge and knit in the

    stitch pattern of your choice to the

    desired length. Your scarf will be

    slightly narrower or wider than the

    dimensions given.

    You might want to use larger nee-

    dles than your yarn label specifies to

    ensure that your scarf is not too stiff

    and dense to hang comfortably.

    DIMENSIONS

    56 inches long or desired length × varying widths

    Specifications

    Scarf:

    Master Pattern

    MATERIALS

    Desired yarn, in the amount specified in Table 1

    1 pair needles in size needed to obtain desired drape

    Tapestry needle

    Pompom maker (optional)

    2-inch × 3-inch cardboard for tassel (optional)

    Crochet hook to suit your yarn thickness (optional)

    CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE

    Table 1. Approximate Yardage for Scarf

    Gauge (in Stockinette Stitch) Approximate Yardage

    2 stsin. 125–200 yd.

    4 stsin. 175–300 yd.

    6 stsin. 200–500 yd.

    04_068175 ch02.qxd 121906 12:40 AM Page 13Scarf: Master

    Pattern (continued)

    14

    NOTES ON THE SAMPLES

    The burgundy tweed twin rib scarf is worked in Brown Sheep Prairie Silk (Color PS400, 72% wool18% mohair10% silk,88 yd.50g ball, 4 sts per inch) on size 9 (5.5mm) needles.

    The light pink mesh pattern scarf is worked in Plymouth Yarn Baby Alpaca DK (Color 1837, 100% baby alpaca, 125 yd.50g

    skein, 6 sts per inch) on size 7 (4.5mm) needles.

    The raspberry trinity stitch scarf is worked on size 17 (12mm) needles, using one strand each GGHMuench Aspen (Color 15,50% wool50% acrylic, 63 yd.50g ball, 2.5 sts per inch) and GGHMuench Soft Kid (Color 73, 70% super kid mohair25%

    nylon5% wool, 151 yd.25g ball, 4.5 sts per inch) held together, resulting in a gauge of 2 sts per inch over stockinette stitch.

    TWIN RIB (MULT OF 6 STS)

    Twin rib pattern looks the same on both sides, even though the two rows that

    make up the pattern are different.

    1 Row 1 (RS): K3, p3; rep from to end of row.

    2 Row 2 (WS): K1, p1; rep from to end of row.

    3 Rep rows 1 and 2 for twin rib.

    Pattern Stitches

    MESH PATTERN (EVEN NO. OF STS)

    Mesh pattern is an easy pattern to work with because you work it the same on

    both sides. It comes out looking like a neat lace rib. Experiment with different

    needle sizes until you achieve the desired look.

    1 Row 1 (RS): K1, yo, sl1, k1, psso; rep from to last st, k1.

    2 Row 2 (WS): Rep row 1.

    3 Rep rows 1 and 2 for mesh pattern.

    TRINITY STITCH (MULT OF 4 STS PLUS 2)

    Trinity stitch, also called bramble stitch, creates a pretty bobble effect. When knit

    in a tightly spun traditional wool on the needles specified for the yarn, it can look

    crisp and firm. The sample shown, knit with big needles in one strand of super-

    bulky yarn and one strand of mohair held together, looks airy and soft.

    1 Rows 1 and 3 (RS): Purl.

    2 Row 2 (WS): K1, [k1, p1, k1] into the next st, p3tog; rep from to last st, k1.

    3 Row 4: K1, p3tog, [k1, p1, k1] into the next st; rep from to last st, k1.

    4 Rep rows 1–4 for trinity stitch.

    04_068175 ch02.qxd 121906 12:40 AM Page 14chapter2 Scarves and Shawls

    15

    CAST ON AND WORK SCARF: ALL SCARVES

    1 CO sts according to Table 2.

    2 Beg with row 1, work in your chosen stitch pattern until scarf measures

    approx 56 inches, or length desired. End with last row of pattern.

    3 BO sts in patt for twin rib scarf, knitwise for mesh pattern scarf, and purlwise

    for trinity stitch scarf.

    4 Cut yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Pull tail through last st and secure.

    5 Go to “Finishing: All Scarves,” below.

    Table 2. Cast On for Scarf

    Gauge (in No. of Sts to CO No. of Sts to CO No. of Sts to CO

    Stockinette Stitch) for Twin Rib for Mesh Pattern for Trinity Stitch

    2 stsin. 12 sts 10 sts 10 sts

    4 stsin. 24 sts 20 sts 22 sts

    6 stsin. 36 sts 30 sts 30 sts

    How to Make the Scarves

    FINISHING: ALL SCARVES

    1 Weave in loose ends.

    2 Lightly steam to block, if necessary, and if your yarn’s care instructions allow.

    Take care not to mash ribbing or bobbles.

    3 Embellish with fringe, pompoms, tassels, or edging of your choice, if desired.

    See Appendix A for a few ideas.

    04_068175 ch02.qxd 121906 12:40 AM Page 15Shawl

    Shapes

    16

    You will be amazed by how many different looks you can create by knitting a simple rectangle or

    triangle. If you want to go for an airy and elegant shawl, try a fine silk blend over a lacy stitch pat-

    tern. If you’re looking for a more go-anywhere, casual style, try a simpler stitch or stripe pattern in

    a thicker yarn.

    RECTANGULAR SHAWLS

    A rectangular shawl is the easiest to make, and while it’s a

    perfect opportunity to use an intricate stitch pattern, it can also

    look terrific in plain garter stitch. You can knit the rectangle

    from the hem up to the neck, working many stitches in rows

    on a long circular needle, or you can work it from side edge to

    side edge. If you choose the latter method, be sure to use a

    stitch pattern that looks good sideways.

    TRIANGULAR SHAWLS

    Most triangular shawls are worked from the pointed tail up to

    the neck, which means you increase stitches over a long series

    of rows to generate the shape. The yarn-over increase works

    beautifully because it forms a decorative line of eyelets along

    the edges. Be sure to choose a yarn and needle size that work

    together to produce a fabric with good drape.

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    17

    This pattern is just a big rectangle, so

    you can work it in any yarn and in any

    stitch pattern. Here is a chance to

    showcase an unusual yarn—a luxurious

    hand-dyed wool or a novelty yarn like

    ribbon or tape. With no shaping to

    keep track of, you have the freedom to

    explore something out of the ordinary.

    The shawl is knit from one side

    edge to the other. Instructions are

    given for six gauges in three stitch pat-

    terns, but these are just general guide-

    lines. You can play around with needle

    size and the final size of the shawl to

    get the look you want.

    DIMENSIONS

    Approximately 52 inches wide × 18 inches from hem to neck

    Specifications

    Rectangular Shawl:

    Master Pattern

    MATERIALS

    Desired yarn, in the amount specified in Table 3

    Note: The gauge in Table 3 refers to the yarn’s gauge as listed on

    the manufacturer’s ball band. To encourage drape, use needles

    larger than the yarn label calls for and don’t worry about achieving

    the yarn’s recommended gauge.

    1 pair straight needles in size needed to obtain drape

    Note: You may find it easiest to work back and forth on a long circu-

    lar needle as the shawl gets larger and heavier.

    Tapestry needle

    Pompom maker (optional)

    2-inch × 3-inch cardboard for tassel (optional)

    Crochet hook to suit your yarn thickness (optional)

    CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE

    Table 3. Approximate Yardage for Rectangular Shawl

    Gauge (in Stockinette Stitch) Approximate Yardage

    2 stsin. 550–650 yd.

    3 stsin. 650–750 yd.

    4 stsin. 800–1,000 yd.

    5 stsin. 950–1,150 yd.

    6 stsin. 1,000–1,250 yd.

    7 stsin. 1,150–1,350 yd.

    04_068175 ch02.qxd 121906 12:40 AM Page 17Rectangular Shawl:

    Master Pattern (continued)

    18

    NOTES ON THE SAMPLE

    The lavender peacock stitch rectangular shawl is worked in Cascade Yarn Venezia (Color 103, 70% merino wool30% silk,102 yd.100g ball, 3 sts per inch) on size 11 (8mm) needles.

    18

    52

    TIP

    Border or No Border?

    Many stitch patterns work beautifully without edgings. You can always crochet or knit a border

    onto the shawl later if you change your mind. If you want to knit a shawl without a knit-in border,it’s a good idea to use a stitch pattern that lays flat.

    On the other hand, knitting the border right into the shawl allows you more freedom in choosing

    a stitch pattern—without the bother of added finishing later. Garter stitch, seed stitch, ribbing, and

    even loop stitch are all good border stitch choices.

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    19

    GARTER RIB PATTERN (MULT OF 4 STS PLUS 2)

    This stitch pattern does not look like most ribbing. It’s very easy to do, and

    it looks the same on both sides.

    1 Row 1 (RS): K2, p2, k2; rep from to end of row.

    2 Row 2 (WS): Rep row 1.

    3 Rep rows 1 and 2 for garter rib.

    PILLARED KNOT STITCH (MULT OF 4 STS PLUS 1)

    This beautiful stitch pattern can get very tight, so if you want your shawl to

    hang nicely, use a soft yarn on a bigger needle than specified.

    1 Row 1 (RS): K1, [p3tog, without slipping stitches from the left needle, bring

    yarn to back and knit the same 3 stitches together without slipping stitches

    from the left needle, bring yarn to the front and purl the 3 stitches together],k1; rep from to end of row.

    2 Row 2 (WS): Purl.

    3 Rep rows 1 and 2 for pillared knot stitch.

    SEAFOAM PATTERN (MULT OF 10 STS PLUS 6)

    This drop stitch pattern works beautifully as a lightweight summer wrap.

    1 Row 1 (RS): Knit.

    2 Row 2 (WS): Knit.

    3 Row 3: K6, yo twice, k1, yo 3 times, k1, yo 4 times, k1, yo 3 times, k1, yo

    twice, k6; rep from to end of row.

    4 Rows 4 and 8: Knit across, dropping the yo loops as you go.

    5 Rows 5 and 6: Knit.

    6 Row 7: K1, yo twice, k1, yo 3 times, k1, yo 4 times, k1, yo 3 times, k1, yo

    twice, k6; rep from across, ending last rep with k1.

    7 Rep rows 1–8 for seafoam pattern.

    Stitch Patterns for the Rectangular Shawl with No Border

    CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE

    04_068175 ch02.qxd 121906 12:40 AM Page 19Rectangular Shawl:

    Master Pattern (continued)

    20

    STOCKINETTE DROP STITCH (ANY NO. OF STS)

    This pattern is easy and looks very elegant. Use this stitch pattern with a

    knit-in border.

    1 Rows 1 and 5 (RS): Knit.

    2 Rows 2 and 6 (WS): Purl.

    3 Row 3: K1, yo twice, k1; rep from to end of row.

    4 Row 4: Purl across, dropping the yo loops as you go.

    5 Rep rows 1–6 for stockinette drop stitch.

    RIDGE AND EYELET STITCH (EVEN NO. OF STS)

    This eyelet pattern forms a simple yet pleasing three-dimensional fabric.

    The rows between the eyelets are raised, creating a wavy effect.

    1 Rows 1 and 5 (RS): K1, k2tog; rep from to last st, k1.

    2 Row 2 (WS): K2, yo, k1; rep from to end of row.

    3 Rows 3 and 7: Knit.

    4 Rows 4 and 8: Purl.

    5 Row 6: K1, yo, k1; rep from to last st, k1.

    6 Rep rows 1–8 for ridge and eyelet stitch.

    PEACOCK STITCH (MULT OF 12 STS)

    This easy stitch pattern produces an undulating fabric. Use this stitch pat-

    tern with a knit-in border.

    1 Row 1 (RS): P2tog twice, [yo, k1] 4 times, p2tog 4 times, [yo, k1] 4 times; rep

    from to last 4 sts, p2tog twice.

    2 Rows 2 and 4: Purl.

    3 Row 3: Knit.

    4 Rep rows 1–4 for peacock stitch.

    Stitch Patterns for the Rectangular Shawl with Knit-in Border

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    21

    RECTANGULAR SHAWL WITH NO BORDER:

    CAST ON

    1 CO sts according to Table 4.

    2 Beg with row 1, work in chosen stitch pattern until shawl meas-

    ures approx 52 inches, or width desired. End with any row for

    garter rib, row 1 for pillared knot, and row 2 or 6 for seafoam

    pattern.

    3 BO sts in patt for garter rib, purlwise for pillared knot stitch, and

    knitwise for seafoam patt.

    4 Cut yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Pull tail through last st and

    secure.

    5 Go to “Finish Shawl: All Rectangular Shawls,” page 22.

    How to Make the Rectangular Shawl

    Table 4. Cast On for Rectangular Shawl with No Border

    Gauge (in No. of Sts to CO No. of Sts to CO No. of Sts to CO

    Stockinette Stitch) for Garter Rib for Pillared Knot St for Seafoam Pattern

    2 stsin. 34 sts 33 sts 36 sts

    3 stsin. 54 sts 53 sts 56 sts

    4 stsin. 74 sts 73 sts 76 sts

    5 stsin. 90 sts 89 sts 86 or 96 sts

    6 stsin. 110 sts 109 sts 106 sts

    7 stsin. 126 sts 125 sts 126 sts

    FAQ

    How do I use a different stitch for a rectangular shawl with no border?

    Just add or subtract a few stitches to come up with a cast-on number that works

    for your stitch pattern. For instance, for a stitch pattern that is a multiple of 5 sts,change the cast-on number above to the closest multiple of 5.

    For example, to make a rectangular shawl using the diagonal check pattern

    shown at a gauge of 4 stitches per inch, cast on 75 stitches and work as follows:

    1 Rows 1 and 4: P1, k4; rep from to end of row.

    2 Rows 2 and 3: P3, k2; rep from to end of row.

    3 Rows 5 and 8: K1, p4; rep from to end of row.

    4 Rows 6 and 7: K3, p2; rep from to end of row.

    5 Rep rows 1–8 for diagonal check pattern.

    CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE

    04_068175 ch02.qxd 121906 12:40 AM Page 21Rectangular Shawl:

    Master Pattern (continued)

    22

    RECTANGULAR SHAWL WITH KNIT-IN BORDER: CAST ON

    You can work any of the three stitch patterns provided on page 20 for this shawl. Or you can substitute a stitch pattern that is

    a multiple of 2, 3, 4, 6, or 12 sts. Just be aware that the first and last 2 sts of every row are knit to form the garter stitch edg-

    ing. The first and last two rows of the shawl are also worked in garter stitch.

    1 CO sts according to Table 5.

    2 Knit 2 rows.

    3 Next row (RS): K2, work row 1 of st patt across to last 2 sts,k2.

    4 Next row (WS): K2, work row 2 of st patt across to last 2 sts,k2.

    5 Continue working st patt as established, knitting first and last

    2 sts of every row for garter stitch for border, until shawl

    measures approx 52 inches, or width desired. End with row

    6 for stockinette drop stitch pattern, any WS row for ridge

    and eyelet stitch, and row 1 for peacock stitch.

    6 Knit 2 rows.

    7 BO all sts knitwise.

    8 Go to “Finish Shawl: All Rectangular Shawls,” below.

    FINISH SHAWL: ALL RECTANGULAR SHAWLS

    1 Weave in loose ends.

    2 Lightly steam to block to measurements, if necessary and if your yarn’s care instruc-

    tions allow. Take care not to mash delicate stitch work.

    3 Embellish with fringe, pompoms, tassels, or edging of your choice, if desired. See

    Appendix A for a few ideas.

    FAQ

    How do I use a different stitch for a rectangular

    shawl with a knit-in border?

    To apply any stitch pattern to this shawl, you just need

    to add or subtract the appropriate number of stitches

    to or from the cast-on number. For example, to use a

    stitch pattern that is a multiple of 5 sts, you can

    change the cast-on number indicated above to the

    closest multiple of 5. To include a 2-stitch border like

    the one here, add 4 sts to that number. A difference of

    a few stitches won’t make a big difference in the fin-

    ished size. You can also experiment with the size of

    and stitch used for the border.

    Table 5. Cast On for Rectangular Shawl with Knit-in Border

    Gauge No. of Sts to CO

    2 stsin. 40 sts

    3 stsin. 52 sts

    4 stsin. 76 sts

    5 stsin. 88 sts

    6 stsin. 112 sts

    7 stsin. 124 sts

    Note: The cast-on numbers in Table 5 include the 2 edging stitches at each end (4 sts

    total). If you are substituting a different stitch pattern from those provided, be sure to

    add 4 to the number of sts needed to arrive at the new cast-on number.

    04_068175 ch02.qxd 121906 12:40 AM Page 22chapter2 Scarves and Shawls

    23

    These triangular shawls are knit from

    the point up, starting with just a few

    stitches and increasing every other row

    as you go up to produce the triangle

    shape. Unlike the rectangular shawl

    pattern, these shawl patterns involve

    shaping, so separate instructions are

    given for each of the three stitch pat-

    terns. All three designs can be worked

    in any gauge because you knit until

    the shawl is the desired size.

    DIMENSIONS

    Approximately 72 inches wide × 34 inches from point to neck, or desired width and length

    72

    34

    Specifications

    Triangular Shawl:

    Master Patterns

    CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE

    04_068175 ch02.qxd 121906 12:40 AM Page 23Triangular Shawl:

    Master Patterns (continued)

    24

    MATERIALS

    Desired yarn, in the amount specified in Table 6

    1 pair straight needles in size needed to obtain drape

    Long circular needle in size needed to obtain drape

    Note: You can start the triangular shawl on straight needles, but

    you will need to switch to a long (at least 29-inch) circular needle

    as the knitting gets heavy and the straight needle becomes too

    crowded.

    Stitch markers (for lines of eyelets shawl)

    Row counter

    Tapestry needle

    Pompom maker (optional)

    2-inch × 3-inch cardboard for tassel (optional)

    Table 6. Approximate Yardage for Triangular Shawl

    Gauge (in Stockinette Stitch) Approximate Yardage

    3 stsin. 400–800 yd.

    5 stsin. 450–950 yd.

    7 stsin. 650–1,250 yd.

    Note: The gauge in Table 6 refers to the yarn’s gauge as listed on

    the manufacturer’s ball band. To encourage drape, use needles

    larger than the yarn calls for and don’t worry about achieving the

    yarn’s recommended gauge.

    NOTES ON THE SAMPLE

    The green easiest lace triangular shawl is worked in elann.com Highland Silk (Color 2117, 80% highland wool20% silk,122 yd.50g ball, 5 sts per inch) on size 10 (6mm) needles. This shawl is 72 inches wide × 34 inches from tail to neck.

    EASIEST LACE SHAWL

    This shawl is easy to make. Plus, it’s reversible and works well

    in all gauges. Try using a needle larger than your yarn specifies

    for a very open lace.

    1 CO 2 sts.

    2 Knit 2 rows.

    3 Row 1 (WS): Knit into the front and back of each st—4 sts.

    4 Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 (RS): Knit.

    5 Row 3: K2, yo, k2—5 sts.

    6 Row 5: K2, yo, k1, yo, k2—7 sts.

    7 Row 7: K2, yo, k1, yo, sl1, k1, psso, yo, k2—9 sts.

    8 Row 9: K2, yo, k1, yo, sl1, k1, psso; rep from to last 2 sts,yo, k2.

    How to Make the Triangular Shawls

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    25

    9 Rep rows 9–10, working patt as established, until shawl reaches desired measurements, ending with a WS row.

    Note: Keep checking measurements as you go; the dimensions given are approximate, and the final length and width may vary from knitter to knitter.

    0 Knit 3 rows.! BO all sts knitwise.

    @ Go to “Finish Shawl: All Triangular Shawls,” page 27.

    Note: The yarn-over pattern can cause an asymmetrical slant to one side. You can correct this at the blocking stage or use it to advantage by throwing the longer side over

    your shoulder or tying the long ends into an elegant knot.

    LINES OF EYELETS SHAWL

    This shawl uses eyelets to create a graphic

    pattern that builds as the shawl grows. It’s

    easy to follow once you get all the lines of

    eyelets in place, after step 19.

    1 CO 3 sts.

    2 Knit 4 rows.

    3 Row 1 (RS): K1, yo, k1, yo, k1—5 sts.

    4 Row 2 (WS): K2, p1, k2.

    5 Row 3: K2, yo, k1, yo, k2—7 sts.

    6 Row 4: K2, p3, k2.

    7 Row 5: K2, yo, k3, yo, k2—9 sts.

    8 Rows 6 and 8: K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.

    9 Row 7: K2, yo, k2tog, yo, pm, k1 (center axis

    st), pm, yo, k2tog, yo, k2—11 sts.

    0 Row 9: K2, yo, k to 2 sts before marker,k2tog, yo, sl marker, k1 (center axis st), sl marker, yo, k2tog, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2—13 sts.! Row 10: K2, p across, slipping markers, to last 2 sts, k2.

    @ Rep rows 9 and 10 until you have 19 sts.

    Next row (RS): K2, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, pm, k2, k2tog, yo, sl marker, k1 (center axis st), sl marker, yo, k2tog, k2, pm, yo, k2tog, k1, yo,k2—21 sts.

    Next row (WS): Rep previous WS row.

    CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE

    04_068175 ch02.qxd 121906 12:40 AM Page 25Triangular Shawl:

    Master Patterns (continued)

    26

    % Next row: K2, yo, [k to 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, yo, sl marker] twice, k1 (center axis st), sl marker, yo, k2tog, k to 4th marker,sl marker, yo, k2tog, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2—23 sts.

    ^ Next row (WS): Rep previous WS row.

    Rep last 2 rows until you have 27 sts, ending with a WS row.

    Next row (RS): [K2, yo] twice, k2tog, [k to 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, yo, sl marker] twice, k1 (center axis st), sl marker, yo,k2tog, k to 4th marker, sl marker, yo, k2tog, k to last 6 sts, k2tog, [yo, k2] twice—29 sts.

    ( Next row (WS): K2, p across, slipping markers, to last 2 sts, k2.) Rep steps 18 and 19, inc 1 st each end every RS row and working eyelet patt as established, until shawl reaches desired measure-

    ments, ending with a WS row.

    Note: Keep checking measurements as you go; the dimensions given are approximate, and the final length and width may vary from knitter to knitter.

    q Knit 5 rows.

    w BO all sts knitwise.

    e Go to “Finish Shawl: All Triangular Shawls,” on the next page.

    REVERSIBLE RICE STITCH SHAWL

    This easy shawl looks great on both sides, so

    it is completely reversible. The rice stitch pat-

    tern tends to create a firm fabric, so for a soft

    drape, try using a needle two or more sizes

    larger than your yarn specifies.

    1 CO 3 sts.

    2 Knit 4 rows.

    Note: For this pattern, you might want to use a row counter

    to keep track of the rows.

    3 Row 1 (RS): K1, yo, k1 tbl, yo, k1—5 sts.

    4 Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8 (WS): Knit.

    5 Row 3: K2, yo, k1 tbl, yo, k2—7 sts.

    6 Row 5: K2, yo, p1, k1 tbl, p1, yo, k2—9 sts.

    7 Row 7: K2, yo, k1 tbl, p1, k1 tbl; rep from

    to last 2 sts, yo, k2—11 sts.

    8 Row 9: K2, yo, p1, k1 tbl, p1; rep from to

    last 2 sts, yo, k2—13 sts.

    9 Rep rows 6–9, working patt and yo increases as established, until shawl reaches desired measurements, ending with a RS row.

    Note: Keep checking measurements as you go; the dimensions given are approximate, and the final length and width may vary from knitter to knitter.

    04_068175 ch02.qxd 121906 12:40 AM Page 26chapter2 Scarves and Shawls

    27

    0 Knit 4 rows.! BO all sts knitwise.

    @ Go to “Finish Shawl: All Triangular Shawls,” below.

    FINISH SHAWL: ALL TRIANGULAR SHAWLS

    1 Weave in loose ends.

    2 Lightly steam to block, if necessary and if your yarn’s care instructions

    allow. Lace patterns benefit from blocking. Be sure to open the stitch

    pattern up a bit as you block and take care not to mash delicate stitch

    patterns.

    3 Embellish with fringe, pompoms, tassels, or edging of your choice, if

    desired. See Appendix A for a few ideas.

    TIP

    Using Other Stitch Patterns for a Triangular Shawl

    You can adapt the triangular shawl to new stitch patterns. You need to perform increases every other row and work

    new stitches into your pattern as you go along. It’s a good idea to make a practice triangle first to ensure that your

    stitch pattern can be adapted to the shape.

    To make a triangular shawl using a two-row stitch pattern that is worked over any number of stitches or over an odd

    number of stitches, follow the instructions for the easiest lace shawl through row 6. Then follow these steps:

    1 Next row (RS): K2, yo, work row 1 of desired stitch pattern up to the last 2 sts, yo, k2.

    2 Next row (WS): K2, work row 2 of desired stitch pattern up to the last 2 sts, k2.

    3 Rep steps 1 and 2, working the [k2, yo] beg every RS row and the [yo, k2] end every RS row, to desired size.

    4 BO loosely.

    To make a triangular shawl using a two-row stitch pattern that is worked over an even number of stitches, follow

    the instructions for the easiest lace shawl through row 4, to 5 stitches. Then follow these steps:

    1 Next row (RS): K2, yo, k into front and back of next st, yo, k2—8 sts.

    2 Next row (WS): K2, work row 2 (or WS row) of desired stitch pattern to last 2 sts, k2.

    3 Next row: K2, yo, work row 1 of desired stitch pattern to last 2 sts, yo, k2.

    4 Rep last 2 rows until shawl is desired size, ending with a WS row.

    5 BO loosely.

    04_068175 ch02.qxd 121906 12:40 AM Page 27Make a Shawl

    into a Poncho

    28

    It is easy to make either a rectangular

    or triangular shawl into a poncho.

    With some creative thinking, you can

    even finish a shawl so that it functions

    as either a shawl or a poncho.

    FOLDED RECTANGLE: METHOD 1

    If your poncho is approximately the same size as specified in

    the master pattern, you can fold it and sew it as illustrated

    here to make it into a poncho.

    1 Fold rectangle in half, matching up ends, so that it is approx

    18 × 26 inches.

    2 Measuring from fold, and leaving 14-inch opening for neck, sew

    rem 12 inches (or length rem for your rectangle) along top

    edge, as shown by dotted line.

    18

    26

    Fold

    12 Sewn 14

    Neck

    opening

    How to Make a Shawl into a Poncho

    Front

    Sewn

    Back FOLDED RECTANGLE: METHOD 2

    This method creates a point in the front and the look of a

    wrap in the back.

    1 Fold rectangle so that the cast-on or bound-off edge meets one

    of the side edges as indicated in the diagram.

    2 Sew where these two edges meet.

    04_068175 ch02.qxd 121906 12:40 AM Page 28chapter2 Scarves and Shawls

    29

    FOLDED TRIANGLE

    If your poncho is approximately the same size as specified in the master

    pattern, you can fold it and sew it as illustrated here to make it into a

    poncho. This will have a point in the front and the back.

    1 Fold triangle in half, matching up ends.

    Note: You can fold over the edge around the neck. This makes it easier to fold the triangle, and it

    produces a collar.

    2 Sew as indicated by the dotted line in the diagram to close the shawl into a

    poncho.

    TIE IT UP

    If your shawl has an open stitch pattern along the edges and you want to

    maintain the possibility of it being both a shawl and a poncho, you can tie

    it closed as described here. This works for both a rectangle and a triangle.

    1 Use the same diagrams with fold and stitch lines as guides for folding.

    2 Instead of sewing, tie at intervals along the dotted line, using ribbon, crochet

    chains, or knitted cord.

    Note: If you want to use a stitch pattern that doesn’t have openings along the

    edge and you want the option of tying your shawl closed, you can plan ahead and

    work eyelets along the sides by working [yo, k2tog] near the beginning and end of

    rows at even intervals.

    Fold

    Sewn 12–14

    Neck

    opening

    BUTTON IT UP

    The yarn-over increases along the edges of the shawls provide built-in

    buttonholes. If you are using a bulky yarn, you need large buttons; finer

    yarns require smaller buttons. You probably don’t want buttons sewn per-

    manently onto your shawl because they can get caught up in a lacy stitch

    pattern. Instead, you can make a double-sided button, which works like a

    cufflink, to hold your shawl closed. You can close your shawl loosely with

    just one or two double-buttons like the ones shown or space them at

    even intervals along the edge for a firm closure.

    1 Make a double-sided button by tying two buttons together with yarn.

    2 Button one side of the double-button to the RS edge where you want to

    close the shawl and then button the other side of the double-button to the

    WS of the opposite edge of the shawl so that the edges overlap and close.

    04_068175 ch02.qxd 121906 12:40 AM Page 29Hats

    Even though hats look more complicated than scarves, they can be just

    as simple and even quicker to make. The hats in this book are knit in

    the round from the brim up on double-pointed needles, eliminating an

    unsightly back seam and minimizing finishing. You will be surprised by

    how many different looks you can achieve by using just one master

    pattern.

    chapter

    3

    05_068175 ch03.qxd 121906 12:41 AM Page 30Hat Styles . . . . . . . . . . .32

    Hat: Master Pattern . . . . . . . . .34

    Finishes for the Top . . . . . . . . .42

    Tutorial: Knitting in the Round on Double-Pointed Needles . . .44

    05_068175 ch03.qxd 121906 12:41 AM Page 31Hat

    Styles

    32

    Hat patterns are easy to customize:

    Simply change the brim style, shape

    the crown a little differently, or add a

    pompom, tassel, or topknot. The vari-

    ations that follow are just a few to get

    you started.

    BRIM TREATMENTS

    Here are four brim styles that are easy to do but result in

    completely different styles. The rolled brim is the easiest

    because it’s worked in stockinette stitch. For this master pat-

    tern, you can work the ribbed brim in single (1x1) rib, or, if

    your stitch count is divisible by 4, in double (2x2) rib. You can

    double the brim length if you prefer to fold it over.

    Rolled brim

    Ribbed brim

    The hemmed brim is folded under at the turning row. The

    hemmed brim shown here uses a picot hem, which has a tiny

    scalloped edge, but you can also follow the instructions for a

    simple purled turning row. Don’t be put off by the earflaps—

    they’re knit right on to the brim and are easy to make.

    Seed stitch

    brim with

    earflaps

    Hemmed brim

    05_068175 ch03.qxd 121906 12:41 AM Page 32chapter3 Hats

    33

    SHAPING TREATMENTS

    After you have completed your brim and knit your hat body to

    the desired length, you can choose one of several shapings to

    finish the crown of your hat. The square top is the easiest

    because it requires no shaping at all. You can leave the top

    square after finishing, or you can sew the corners together as

    shown; for a completely different look, attach cords to the

    corners and tie them together. The rounded top is achieved by

    working a short series of decrease rounds. The yarn is then

    cut, and the tail is pulled through the few remaining stitches,cinched tight, and fastened off.

    The pointed top is worked and finished almost like the

    rounded top, but over many more rounds. To make a long,pointed hat like the stocking cap shown, you work decrease

    rounds separated by a larger number of non-decrease rounds.

    Rounded top

    Square top

    Stocking top

    Pointed top

    EMBELLISHMENTS

    You can decorate your hats all kinds of ways. Try pompoms, tassels, cro-

    chet chains, or knitted cords, loops, and balls. Sew a pompom to the top

    for a traditional look or attach it to the front, off to one side, for a chic

    style. You can finish the top with a length of knitted cord and then form

    the cord into a knot or loop, or you can sew a pompom to the end of the

    cord. Crochet chains also work well as hat ties and pompom or tassel

    holders. The knitted ball is a fun embellishment—you can make one big

    one or a cluster of small ones to sew to your hat top.

    05_068175 ch03.qxd 121906 12:41 AM Page 33Hat:

    Master Pattern

    34

    SIZES

    XXS (XS, S, M, L)

    Brim circumference: 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) inches

    MATERIALS

    Specifications

    With this one master pattern, you can

    create countless hat styles, in many

    shapes, sizes, and stitch patterns. The

    size range covers the whole family, and

    the gauges include yarns from sport

    weight to bulky.

    Desired yarn, in the amount specified in Table 1

    1 set of double-pointed needles in size needed to obtain

    gauge

    1 set of double-pointed needles one or two sizes smaller

    than size needed to obtain gauge (for edgings)

    Stitch marker to fit your needle size

    Tapestry needle

    Pompom maker (optional)

    Table 1. Approximate Yardage for Hat

    Gauge (in Stockinette Stitch) Approximate Yardage

    2 stsin. 85–150 yd.

    3 stsin. 100–175 yd.

    4 stsin. 125–225 yd.

    5 stsin. 150–250 yd.

    6 stsin. 175–275 yd.

    7 stsin. 200–325 yd.

    NOTES ON THE SAMPLES

    The pink ro ......